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Iran-Esfahan
The vast province of Isfahan, is located almost in
the centre of Iran between Tehran and Fars. Although it is mostly arid, there
are several high mountains (Mount. Karkas at 3899m) and rivers such as the
Zayandeh Rud 1 that dominate its landscape. A large population lives in the
numerous oases that mark the old caravan routes, which linked not only the
northwest and southwest of Iran, but crossed the mountain cols to the south,
towards Shiraz and the ports on the Persian Gulf.
On approaching the city of Isfahan, leaving behind the great deserts bounded by
the mountain chains that enclose the Iranian plateau, one comes upon a wide
basin at the bottom of which sleeps the historical city. The most striking
thing, at first site, is the contrast between the endless expanse of rock and
sand behind, and the huge oasis that lies ahead, with its big trees bearing
lush, verdant foliage. Only the bulbous domes of the Mosques show above the
canopy of vegetation glowing turquoise-green in the sunshine. The cool blue
tiles of Isfahan’s Islamic buildings, and the cities majestic bridges, contrast
perfectly with the hot dry Iranian countryside around it.
The main monuments of Isfahan are essentially the work of one man; Shah Abbas I
(more commonly known as Shah Abbas the Great), who made the town his capital in
1598, and had it rebuilt with large avenues, magnificent gardens and a royal
palace. Shah Abbas chose Isfahan as his capital, prompted by the fear for the
safety of the old capitals, Tabriz and Qazvin, which were considered too close
to the Ottoman Empire.
During his reign, Isfahan was opened up to the outside world with the presence
of a number of foreigners at the Safavid court - English and Dutch merchants,
European artists, and diplomats hoping to secure alliances against the common
Ottoman enemy - and became one of the most glorious cities of its time. The
famous half rhyme "Isfahan nesf-eh jahan" (Isfahan is half the world) was coined
in 16th century to express the city’s grandeur.
However, its period of glory lasted, for little more than 100 years. An invasion
by the Afghans in the 18th Century, hastened the decline and the capital was
subsequently transferred to Shiraz and then to Tehran.
Isfahan’s main monuments are centred around the following areas; the Imam Square
(or Royal Square), the Friday Mosque, and the bridges on the Zayandeh Rud. The
centre of Isfahan during the Seljuk period was the Friday Mosque. Today, the
mosque is like a patchwork of history with a winter hall that is probably
Timurid; minarets built by the "Black Sheep" tribe and the interior decorated by
the Safavids. In 1598, Shah Abbas decided to shift this centre to the present
day Imam Square - according to some, in order to annoy a rich merchant who was
reluctant to part with his property.
The Bridges of Isfahan
The Zayandeh Rud (river) starts in the Zagros Mountains, flows from west to east
through the heart of Isfahan, and dries up in the Kavir desert.
The bridges over the river include some of the nicest architecture in Isfahan.
The oldest bridge is the "Pol-e Shahrestan" which was probably built in the 12th
century during the Seljuk period. Further upstream is the "Pol-e Khaju" which
was built by Shah Abbas II in 1650. It is 123 metres long with 24 arches, and it
also serves as a sluice gate.
Si-o-se-pol or "Allah-verdi Khan Bridge",
built in 1632 by Shah Abbas on the Zayandeh Rud (river), Isfahan
The next bridge is the "Pol-e Jubi". It was originally built as an aqueduct to
supply the palace gardens on the north bank of the river. Further upstream again
is the "Si-o-Se Pol" or bridge of 32 arches. Build during the rule of Shah Abbas
the Great, it linked Isfahan with the Armenian suburb of Jolfa. It is by far the
longest bridge in Isfahan at 295m.
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